At the table of the great chefs, the meat has not had its last word



How can we imagine the restaurant of tomorrow taking into account the fragility of ecosystems and global warming? On the gastronomic scene too, the question is asked. Many chefs have ecological and societal issues on their plates, and if commitment is undoubtedly a rising value in gastronomy, is it the victory of salsify over entrecote?

Not surprisingly, the chefs advocate flexitarianism. According to the “Robert” dictionary, which incorporated the word in its edition in 2018, the flexitarian is the one that “ limits meat consumption without being exclusively vegetarian ”. This allows, good thing, to continue serving a good rare rib of beef. At the Clover Grill (Paris 1er), a rotisserie where cooking is done over a wood fire, Jean-François Trap checks it every day: “People want to eat good meat. “ Far from wanting to ostracize one or the other, restaurateurs quickly adapted. Some have even anticipated the green wave by devoting the vegetable.

It was Alain Passard who, a pioneer among the Michelin-starred, breaking with the carnivorous tradition of French gastronomy, decided to ” separate from animal tissue »At the dawn of the 2000s, after a decade marked by scrapie, dioxin-fed chicken and mad cow. Thunderclap at the three-star roaster. His relatives are worried: “You’re going to lose all your stars, and your customers. ” Regulars, who came to the

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